Monday Matters–Newark, The Gateway Center, Part II

Newark’s Architectural Splendor

One of the things that constantly captures my attention is the extraordinary beauty and diversity that can be found in the residential architecture all over the city of Newark.  This city literally grew out of the ground primarily during the nineteenth century.  Records show that in 1777, there were 141 homes in Newark. Sixty years later, there were 1542–a remarkable growth in a period where labor was painstaking.  There are sterling examples of rich architectural detail and creative design from this period which still stand today.

While there is no doubt that the greatest concentration of magnificent mansions can be found in the Forest Hill section of Newark, one need only to travel the streets of The Ironbound, University Heights, Lincoln Park, Vailsburg, Weequahic and even the Central Business District to find numerous notable treasures.  Some have been lovingly maintained or restored, and far too many others have fallen to varying degrees of neglect.

The stories behind these homes are as fascinating as the structures themselves.  One of my favorites is of The Sydenham House which is Newark’s oldest private home thought to be considered for a time by George Washington as use for his headquarters.

The Sydenham House

The Sidman family dates back to the time of William the Conqueror, when the first ancestor of whom there is any record is said to have come to England from Normandy. He appears to have been a favorite of the great William and received from him a considerable grant of land on the river Syd and from this the family derived its name—Sydenham, which was later shortened to Sidman.

The introduction of the Sidman family to this neighborhood began with a romance, when John Sydenham ran away with Susannah Handcock, in 1711.

It seems that Edward Handcock, “yoeman” (or Handcook, as one document gives the name) was living on this property in the year above mentioned, and
that John Sydenham, who happened along from no one knows just where, fell desperately in love with Susannah, an only daughter, but the stem father frowned on the young man’s suit and Susannah was locked in an upper room. However, John brought around a ladder one night, and the two adjourned to the parson. That they were promptly forgiven is evidenced by the following extract from a deed, made in 171 1 by Edward Handcock,in which he says: ”for and in consideration of ‘the love, good will and affection which I have and do bear unto my loving son-in-law, John Sydenham, etc., and my only daughter, Susannah, his wife”.  He then deeds to his son-in-law four acres of his land situated on the “highway to Acquacanong”, and six acres on the “highway to Watersson.” 

The woods on the Sidman place were used to some extent as a camping ground by certain Indians.  Another of the early memories is Mollie, an old Indian basket maker, who frequented the neighborhood, securing her material from the Sidman woods. She frequently slept on the floor of the kitchen, always in a sitting posture. One day other Indians came this way and the wild instinct returned to the old basket maker who, after an excited conversation with her new-found friends, departed with them never to be seen again in the neighborhood.

The above stories were found in a delightful read, “Woodside, the north end of Newark, N. J. : its history, legends and ghost stories, gathered from the records and old inhabitants now living” by C.G. Hine, published in 1909.

The Sydenham House today has been home of Mr. and Mrs. D. J. Henderson for over 20 years.  The couple oversaw the faithful restoration of the property.

Another interesting example of current historic residence is The Fewsmith Home.

Built in the 1830′s, this large French Chateau was the home of the Reverend Joseph Fewsmith, of the Second Presbyterian Church.  Fewsmith was longest-serving pastor of this church and it may be noted that his brother, Henry, was a well-respected artist who studied at the Fine Arts Academy of Dusseldorf.

This home was completely restored by the Capriola Family in the early 2000′s who now use the home as their residence on Central Avenue.

Other noted homes have been repurposed.  Located near the Fewsmith Home, this solid large mansion known as The Marcus L. Ward Home now serves as the site of the world-famous Newark Museum.

The Plume House, located in the Lower Broadway area on Broad St., was built as a farmhouse in 1710.  It has served as the rectory for the House of Prayer Episcopal Church since 1850.  It was in this house in 1887, in the top floor laboratory, that the Rev. Hannibal Goodwin invented flexible film which became a basis for the motion picture industry.

The former residents of the Plume House sparked some tales as interesting as the Sydenham’s.

In the days when the shots fired at Lexington and Concord stirred to patriotism the hearts of the men of Newark, this old house stood on the outskirts of the town, an easy prey for redcoats when they came in from Hackensack, as it was the first house they reached. Hessians then prowled through Newark, established themselves uninvited in homes, and destroyed property. Alistress Ann van Wagenen Plume, whose dairy stood then where the House of Prayer now stands on Broad Street, was a good Patriot. So, also, was her husband, and the troops of King George were not welcome. However, the Plumes had to make the best of them, only sometimes things did go badly, so badly that Mistress Plume showed high temper. There was an instance of this when, on hearing an unusual thumping one day downstairs, she descended to find Hessians chopping in her back parlor wood which they were about to put on the open fireplace.

“Stop that!” said Mistress Plume.

“If you speak another crooked word, 111 blow your head off!”
retorted the officer.

“Ram’s horn, if I die for it!” exclaimed the thoroughly angry lady,
looking the officer straight in the eye.

Tradition says that the officer and soldiers kept their pistols in their
belts, and beat a retreat from Ann van Wagenen Plume’s back parlor.

Now the lady of the Plume household was resourceful and shrewd. When, a few days later, she found a Hessian soldier taking an inventory of her ice-house, she said nothing, but shut the door and put the key in her pocket. It was cold in the ice-house, and the soldier howled for help; but the walls were thick, and nobody heard him. A short time afterward word flew that the Continentals were coming, and the red- coats, in great disarray, hastened off. They did not miss their imprisoned comrade. He was in the ice-house, shivering; and even the coveted provisions that surrounded him were of little comfort.

The Continentals came. Mistress Plume led them directly to her ice-house, and unlocked the door.

“Come out!” she said to her prisoner.

He came out, wearing the customary Hessian hat, decorated with heavy brass trimmings. This the Continentals unceremoniously removed from his head, and presented to Mistress Plume as a reward for the capture. It is said that she took off these brass adornments, and that for years they served as a knocker on the front door.

Sadly, the Plume House is currently in a state of disrepair.  But perhaps, the greatest injustice to architectural magnitude in Newark is The Krueger-Scott Mansion.  Believed to be the most expensive home ever constructed in Newark, this edifice is in dire need of a savior.

Built in 1888 at 601 Martin Luther King Blvd, the home of Gottfried Krueger, one of Newark’s five estimable brewers.  His namesake brewery would become the first in the US to offer beer in cans. This 40 room mansion was built in the heart of the “silk stocking district of Newark high upon a hill.  He told the architect to “outdo” Mr. Ballentine’s house, and, indeed he did.  From the 1920s and for the next 30 years, the mansion belonged to the Scottish Rite Masons.  The masons built a 700 seat auditorium within the house to use for their functions.  The last owner was self-made entrepreneur, Louise Scott.  Mrs. Scott worked as a domestic during the day and at night studied at beauty school.  She soon established a chain of beauty salons in Newark and her business grew to make her the first millionairess in Newark.

Mrs. Scott saved the house from destruction at one point and managed to obtain historical preservation status for the structure.  More recently, the house has generated a hotbed of controversy.  After the house had been vacant for a decade, in the 1990s the city started making plans to convert it into an African-American Cultural Center. 7 million dollars and 7 years later, very little renovation was done to the building.  Money ran out, blame was tossed from all sides and the mansion has remained in this state for several years.

One positive note is news of the Krueger-Scott Mansion Urban Farm.  As a cooperative project of Urban Farm Fresh,  the City of Newark’s office of Housing and Economic Development and Rutgers University Agricultural Experiment Station, an acre of land around the home will serve as a working urban farm and farmer’s market.  A portion of this land will be sectioned into community gardens for “do-it-yourself” gardeners from the immediate community. And a three-season meeting space will be available for educational activities and events focusing on health, wellness, and urban agriculture.

(Excellent 2 part video about the Krueger-Scott mansion created by Samantha J. Boardman for Clementine Productions).

But, if you are not in a position to undertake the renovation of Krueger-Scott, perhaps you would like to look at these photos of architecturally rich properties which are currently on the market for sale in Newark.  Prices range from the low 200,000s to the 400,000s for these fantastic mansions and brownstone.  Some are in mint condition and others are in need of artistic TLC!

In my opinion, the most intriguing is this lovely home on Ballantine Parkway in Forest Hill.  Built for Dr. George Lamont in 1909, the attic of the home served as storage for Dr. Lamont’s boat.  As the story goes,  a few months after he took residence in this mansion, Dr. Lamont took his boat out to Barnegat Bay and promptly drowned!  The mansion then reverted ownership to be shared by his five red-headed daughters.  Today, this exquisite, well-maintained home can be yours for $480,000.

You may search for many, many other fine properties in Newark on the search feature in the right hand column of this blog.  Enjoy!

My thanks for resource help on this posting from Principle Newark City Planner and Acting Historic Preservation Officer, Michele Alonso and Ulana Zakalak (Zakalak Associates, LLC) restoration specialist and architectural historian.

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